Falconry

One morning, when I was about 8 or 9 years old, I did my usual thing of wandering through the fields near our house. We lived in the Lincolnshire Fens at that time, vast and flat, a landscape of arable farmland, dykes and ditches and canals, reedbeds, marshes, will-o’-the-wisps, prehistoric burial mounds, Roman roads that run straight to the horizon and beyond.

That morning I went through the hay meadow and the ancient orchard beyond it, then across more fields to a reed-edged waterway that I loved for its remoteness and timelessness, its population of noisy little birds, and the gnarly oak that grew beside it. I climbed into the oak’s lower boughs, a shady hiding place to wait and watch for whatever wildlife might emerge in my wake.

And then I noticed something else in the tree: a dead falcon, its long mews jesses caught around a small branch. Falconers do not fly birds with mews jesses so it must have escaped captivity somehow, flown off with the long leather straps streaming behind it. I don’t know what sort of falcon it was – perhaps a Peregrine, perhaps a Lanner Falcon. It was not yet maggoty and rotten, had probably not been dead more than a day or so. It was a sad end, entangled in this remote spot, unable to drink or feed, perhaps thrashing itself to death in its frenzied efforts to escape.

Carefully I untangled the falcon, cradled it in the crook of my arm, climbed down. I  undid the jesses, slipped the loops down over its talons. It was free. Then – gently, reverently – I laid it at the foot of the tree, to sink slowly away into worm and earth, to loose its feathers into the winds.

Finding this dead falcon was one of those great events of childhood that reverberate through the rest of your life, their meanings elusive yet powerful, their memory calling to you at odd moments.

It is because of this event that if I find some small dead thing on a path, I will lay it gently to one side and whisper some soft incantation to it. It is because of this event that I will apologize to trees if, pushing through them, I snap twigs. It’s not that I think the universe cares about these small lives or minor damages, much less about my murmured sorrow or contrition. It is simply what it is: a small act of respect, of mindfulness, and through such small acts I remind myself to tread softly upon the Earth, to notice, to care.

And it is because of this event that today I visited a falconry centre and spent the morning doing an introduction to falconry, learning about and handling hawk and eagle, vulture and owl.

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On Alderley Edge

Yesterday I went to Alderley Edge for the first time and the thousandth. It was a strange thing, visiting a place that I’d never been to before and yet which is a key part of the geography of my world. Here were caves and hollows, ancient woodland, rocks and wind-blasted edges I’ve explored so many times in the fiction of Alan Garner, in The Weirdstone of Brisingamen and The Moon of Gomrath, and more recently in Boneland. 

Even the placenames here are tales: Stormy Point, the Devil’s Grave, Iron Gates, the Thieves Hole, the Golden Stone, Clockhouse Woods, Druid’s Circle, Holy Well, Castle Rock.

So I wandered along the paths of that known and unknown place, thrilled by it, a little afraid of the intensity of melding the imagined and the actual.

And I stared suspiciously at random mischievous-looking silverbrows who may have been Mr Garner, or Cadellin, or both … Shamans of this eldritch landscape.

Stormy Point

Stormy Point

The Thieves' Hole

Mining tunnel, Church Quarry

Church Quarry, where John Evans, the Hermit of Alderley Edge, lived in a hut around a hundred years ago. The tunnel goes back and back into a starless subterranean night.

Rock and root

Rock and root

The Wizard

The Wizard’s Well

The face of the Wizard of Alderley Edge, carved by Robert Garner, Alan Garner’s great-great grandfather.

Drink of this and take thy fill for the water falls by the Wizhard’s Will.

Into Snowdonia

It rained all the way on our journey from Builth Wells to Llyn Tegid. I didn’t care. The mountains of mid- and north Wales are so spectacular, so mythic, that the relentless rain only added to their mystery and power.

I wanted to take photographs through the windscreen as we traveled. The only thing to hand was my iPhone but it wasn’t up to the job. I don’t think any camera is really up to the job.  I’ve seen this landscape on TV and in thousands of photographs but 2D media cannot do justice to the raw wildness and heft of it. It’s a landscape that you need to experience, to occupy.

The road runs alongside the River Wye for miles. Not yet the sleek brown Wye of the south but its wilder upper reaches, a stony river of hurtling black water flecked with white. Beyond road and river, the mountains fill half the sky – steep wooded slopes; platforms of wiry grass, bracken, and gorse; sheer drops of fissured rock.

A great waterfall plunging from heights lost in cloud, as if falling from the sky itself.

Spring is late this year. Oak and alder are leafless as we head north, black and dripping in the rain. Here and there, shaggy-fleeced mountain sheep lie with their lambs beneath the trees, waiting out the downpour.

We pitch up at the northeastern end of Llyn Tegid, Lake of Serenity, and the winds battered us for four days and nights. Llyn Tegid – the biggest natural lake in Wales, home to a mythical water beast much like the Loch Ness Monster. On moonlit nights, so legend has it, towers are visible in the lake’s depths – the drowned palace of Tegid Foel, husband of the enchantress Ceridwen who swallowed her servant Gwion Bach and nine months later gave birth to Taliesin, bard and wildman of the mountains.

Llyn Tegid

Llyn Tegid

I have been a course, I have been an eagle.
I have been a coracle in the seas:
I have been compliant in the banquet.
I have been a drop in a shower;
I have been a sword in the grasp of the hand
I have been a shield in battle.
I have been a string in a harp,
Disguised for nine years.
in water, in foam.

- Cad Goddeu, The Book of Taliesin

And so we went on, to the coast and the western edge of Snowdonia National Park. Spring arrived in a rush – sunlight, warmth, hawthorns tipped with green, willow catkins bristling like hedgehogs, a bumble bee bumping drunkenly from one pollen-yellow head to another.

We walked through Barmouth, over the famous railway bridge that spans the Mawddach estuary then along the Llywbr Mawddach towards Dolgellau.

All the while here, we feel outside time, or moving through mythic time. That we might see footsore Roman soldiers trudging along the valley, or look up and see Myrddin Wyllt silhouetted on a high peak, or hear the songs of Taliesin – bard, shapeshifter – whispered on the breeze.

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In the Welsh mountains

We’re in Powys, on a smallish and lovely site called Fforest Fields. It’s not far from where my friend Neil Ansell spent 5 years living alone in a remote cottage – an experience he later recounted in his beautiful book Deep Country. It’s a magical place – low mountains, steep wooded gullies where tiny streams hurtle downhill, rolling farmland on the lower slopes and the raw uplands still patched with snow. 

There are miles of trails and footpaths here, some along the valley floor but we take the paths that zigzag up the mountains. Every twist reveals some new wonder: a dramatic sky over a mountain landscape that stretches to the far horizon; a waterfall tumbling over a mossy rockface; an ancient alder, gnarly and knuckled; a blood-red elf cup fungus. Ravens drift on the high thermals, making clicky calls I’ve never heard before: tick tock scraaaa! A red kite, buzzards. And, in the very early morning, a strange deep fluting that we think may be a Long-Eared Owl.

It’s been sunny almost every day since we arrived. On the uplands, there’s a biting wind and spikes of ice glitter in the higher waterfalls. Far snowy mountains, scored as if the wind raked claws over their flanks. A dozen skylarks, drenching me with song. In the valley below, lambs just a few days old gambol in the sunshine – lucky to be born just after the unseasonal extreme cold that killed so many ewes and lambs this year.

It’s easy to understand why Neil spent 5 years in this part of the world. We’ll have to leave next week for the coast, Snowdonia, Cumbria, then Scotland. But I think we’ll be back one day.

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Purton Hulks

In 1909, a number of old timber lighters were beached along the Severn at Purton to reinforce an eroding bank. Over the years, more barges at the ends of their working lives were added. Today there are 81 hulks along this stretch of river, half-buried in sandy mud, overgrown with grass. There are schooners and trows, concrete-hulled barges, workboats, lighters, Appledore and bird barges. Broken curves of wood, weathered and grainy, mapped with lichens and algae.

barge1barge2barge3

It was bitter out there. We’re on course for the coldest March for 50 years. Spring waits – a froth of hawthorn blossom here and there, clumps of chilly daffodils, snowdrops still out like lingering patches of dirty snow. This morning I watched sand martins skim the canal for insects. But there are no insects. Not yet.

Glastonbury Tor

Glastonbury Tor

Glastonbury Tor

The National Trust sign says the Tor has been a place of pilgrimage for some 10,000 years. It’s easy to see why it would be – this improbable, steep-sided hill rising from the Summerland Meadows in the vast lowland sweep of the Somerset Levels, views for miles in every direction. On a clear day you can see all the way to Dorset, Wiltshire, Wales.

Once the Somerset Levels were marshland, a glittering expanse of water and reed, misty, mysterious, and the Tor a hill island in fenland. Ynys Wydryn, the Isle of Glass. It’s a mythic place: Annwn, gateway to the Celtic Otherworld; Avalon, the magical isle where Excalibur was forged and where the mortally wounded King Arthur was taken after the Battle of Camlann; the Spiral Castle of the King of the Faeries.

St Michael’s church stood atop the Tor until 1275, when an earthquake shook it apart. The tower that stands there now is all that remains of its replacement, built in the 1360s and destroyed in the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. In that year, on this spot, the Abbot of Glastonbury Abbey and two of his monks were hanged, drawn and quartered, blood spilling into the magical stuff of the land. Christianity has a long history here yet still seems uncomfortable, alien, shattered by geophysical and political earthquakes, surviving only as a spin on more ancient beliefs – holy wells and chalices, votive offerings, liminality, gateways to magical lands.

View from theTor at dawn

View from the Tor at dawn